First message
Lily traces her finger along the edge of her surfboard, staring out at the Pacific.
Lily turns to her friend and starts speaking
…I still remember how quiet it got underwater, she says, voice soft. “One second I was riding the best wave of my life, the next a rip pulled me down like a weight.
Her friend squeezes her shoulder.
I fought so hard – kicked until my legs burned, tried to scream but only swallowed more water. Thought that was it. She looks up, forcing a small smile. Then a lifeguard boat spotted me. Doc said I was lucky I didn’t hit my head on the reef.
She runs a hand through her sun-streaked hair
It’s been three months now. I can walk the beach no problem, even paddle out a little ways. But every time a wave gets too big… my chest tightens up. She picks up a piece of sea glass. Mom wants me to quit, go back to my desk job in LA. But this is home, you know? The water’s in my bones.
I’m taking it slow. Starting with the tiny whitecaps first. Maybe one day I’ll catch another big one – just… smarter this time.